Originally uploaded by dwain
29 September 2008
Green Design Festival 2008
Originally uploaded by dwain
This is an installation at the Green Design Festival happening at Syntagma Square. Miah and I stopped by on our way to the Acropolis on Saturday. There was a dress made out of used dryer sheets.
The Acropolis is as obscenely crowded as one would imagine, and it's as disappointing as one would expect, though that seems a paradox. If you expect disappointment, is it really disappointing?
Madonna was in town Saturday night. A group of girls on the metro were trying to figure out how to use binoculars. Hilarious.
Sunday we went to The Mall and watched a film with Greek subtitles. One of the highlights of the experience was watching the three--three!--cigarette commercials before the movie. One was for Silk Cut, another for Camel, and rounding them out an ad for Marlboro. The Marlboro ad was the funniest because it was the classic Marlboro Man ad with horses and cattle and canyons and wool-lined coats and essentially everything NOT Greek. It was stepping back in time 20 years to when cigarette ads were legal in the States.
Grocery shopping Saturday morning was an adventure. It's like cryptography trying to read the labels! I still think our olive oil might be baby oil.
As of last week, here are my roles at school:
- Academy ESL instructor/coordinator
- Middle school ESL instructor and curriculum co-developer
- Member of CST (child services team) which meets weekly
- Surprised member of the ESL committee which I didn't know existed
- Sophomore class advisor (I don't know any 10th graders who speak English)
- Debate club co-coach
- Film appreciation sponsor (which may or may not happen)
- Technology mentor to a couple of 'experienced' teachers
- Man about town
My middle school ESL class, which started as 10, has burgeoned into a rowdy class of 16. I'm frying my mind.
old man at the Acropolis
Originally uploaded by dwain
I don't know why he was there. It was packed with tourists, but there he sat.
23 September 2008
Hydra-tion
Three hours later, we finally left the cafe. During that time our travel friends joined us and helped us mark our spot in the cafe as it became a haven for locals escaping the rain. It was a fascinating group of people who gathered in the small room and watched others splash by on the sidewalk and weave through the tables that almost completely fill the quay. There were locals (Miah wondered how to tell the locals from the tourists; I suggested that the people wearing rubber boots were locals and those wearing sneakers weren't) who were obviously torn between being happy about a day off and being glum about not heading out on their boats to fish, and there were the well-dressed people looking at architectural plans for a mansion somewhere on the island. A lot of people told us on our return to Athens that they felt bad for us in the rain, but I honestly am so glad I got to see the island in a state which is quite rare. Seriously, it hadn't rained since February! I spent a rainy day on Hydra and saw the island cleansed of dirt, trash, and tourists. I'm happy.
When we left Tassos, we decided to brave the wind and light rain and head to Kimina by following the road west. It was cold, dreary, and difficult to walk because of the wind, but it was a fun walk through the dead town in search of a restaurant. When we finally found one with shelter (the patio had plastic walls), we planned to spend several hours there. Our waiter wasn't the happiest fellow, but we didn't care and had as jovial a time as the dozen members of a family near us had at their party. I ordered red mullet and was asked how much. I didn't know, so I said 250 grams which turned out to be 3 fish. The taste was fine, but what a pain to pick through the bones! I also found out later that red mullet are attracted to sewage and eat it. No more red mullet for me.
We got kicked out of the restaurant for their siesta time, so we followed suit and took a nap. Later that evening we went to a restaurant near our hotel (though everything was near the hotel, really) where we were fortunate to find a table for 7 before the place packed. There were people from England, New Zealand, and various continental European spots as well Greeks all enjoying the wonderful food. I got boiled octopus from Hydra, something else I'll never eat again. I prefer it grilled.
After dinner we went to the Pirate Bar and spent some time chatting amongst ourselves and with the Greek-English owner/tender. It was a fun time until the 80s and 90s dance party started up (on purpose) and the music got loud. Miah and I took a stroll around the harbor to another party that we'd heard earlier. The music drifting across the water was lively, and it turned out to be an organized party of some sort (wedding, birthday, who knows) with people dressed in white and wearing olive garlands dancing in one of the old buildings along the walk. They were dancing to traditional Greek music, and the circular dances were mesmerizing to watch through the leaded windows. I'm sure their party went on until 6 in the morning, but Miah and I went back to bed at around 2.
Sunday
We got up early Sunday morning hoping to hike up to a monastery and convent about a kilometer from town. We got breakfast at Tassos again and then ended up waiting for the others in our party for about 2 hours. I prefer traveling with a small group of like-minded individuals; night people and morning people don't mix.
The hike up through the town was the greatest part of the adventure as we walked under stone arches and down shoulder-width alleys in search of any stairs going up. I "asked" for directions from an old woman standing on her balcony, and by "asked" I mean I butchered "Where is Profitis Ilias." She understood well enough, though, and pointed up and right. We soon got lost again, though, and got directions from an intimidating German man who yelled in to his wife to bring us a bottle of water for which he would take no payment.
When we finally reached the religious sites, they were closed (no surprise on a Sunday morning on which I'd seen the priest having morning coffee on the wharf). We did get some wonderful views of the town and of the Peloponnesse (which can be spelled 10 different ways), and we spent some time standing at the base of a white windmill which had lost its "sails" years before.
We descended in a couple of groups, one of which got a nice lunch and decided to head home early. Miah, Kate, Jill and I decided to stick about to avoid returning to Athens. It had been a sunny day but was beginning to cloud over again, so Miah, Kate and I raced down to a nearby pebble beach for a swim.
I didn't have my shorts in my bag, so I got to show off my unmentionables in truly European fashion. No, I wasn't naked. It was an adventure for the girls to try and change while maintaining at least some privacy, and I can't say they were completely successful in retaining all dignity. The water made up for it all, though. It was warm, salty, and pastel blue. My swimming abilities are.... I have none. However, the water was so salty that I was able to float for quite a while before I remembered I was in the sea and panic made me splash back to shore. It was worth getting out into the cold wind that was blowing clouds in.
We rode back to Athens on a hydrofoil, a first for all of us. It was weird and not nearly as luxurious as the catamaran. Once in Athens we had to wait for ages at the Monastiraki metro station because they don't run as many metros on Sundays. It was crowded and hot, and I ended up whanging some poor guy in the head with my backpack, but he was gracious and petted my arm to show it was okay.
Being back in Athens isn't fun. I feel stressed. The noise and smells bring me back to the reality of life outside fairytale land rather harshly. At least I can go back again.
21 September 2008
Hydra taxi
Hydra taxi
Originally uploaded by dwain
The only vehicles allowed on Hydra are municipal vehicles (a total of about 5), so most work is done by boat or by donkey.
18 September 2008
We ate at a sushi restaurant, our first sushi in a while! It was remarkably expensive, but it was worth it! The 4€ piece of tuna was delectable.
After dinner we walked down Monastiraki and peeked in at the stores. There's all manner of junk to be purchased, and I'm sure that if we'll be seeing you at Xmas, you'll be seeing some of the junk!
Tomorrow we have a Parent Teacher Organization bbq after school after which we head to Hydra. The high on Saturday is supposed to be 68 with the chance of storms. Most people would see this as a bad thing, but I hate the hot weather and don't care about the beach, so I'm quite content. Now, the thought of an hour and a half on choppy seas isn't quite as appealing.
15 September 2008
Friday night Miah and I went to the embassy with a couple of the other new teachers. It was a farewell party for one of the Marines who had received transfer orders, and although we had nothing to do with it, we were invited by one of the embassy wives who teaches at ACS.
What a feeling to walk up the busy Athenian sidewalks and see, next to the music hall, a giant complex of concrete with the American flag waving. The security getting into the building was slow, and we had to wait in a holding area until an escort came to pick us up. It was easy to tell we were at an American party as soon as we stepped onto the grounds because the smell of charcoal and sizzling meat wafted everywhere. Towheaded children ran around in shorts and Tevas while parents laughed loudly and talked about getting packages from Amazon through the APO. Fortunately we knew a couple of the wives who work at the school and so had someone to talk to. The ambassador introduced himself to us and chatted briefly in the banal way that diplomats and politicians do then slipped away. The gunnery sergeant, Steve, was the quintessential Marine: 6-foot-odd tall, a waist like a ballerina and shoulders like a footballer, a loud and confident voice which threw out military acronyms and accolades constantly, and a foul mouth that filled the complex.
I've never been particularly interested in the machine of war since I stopped playing with GI Joes in elementary school (okay, maybe high school). The mentality of those who join the forces isn't something which I can comprehend, and as such I felt a strain as I interacted with the Marines while playing foosball and chatting over Beam and Coke. They were polite, I was polite, yet I knew if they had any inkling of how mysterious their committment to this vast machine was to me, the conversation would be over. It's not something we can sit and talk about over dinner; the antithetical gulf is too great. I can't even say that I respect or admire what they do--and PLEASE don't stop reading there--because how can I honestly say I respect what I don't understand. It's too easy to say "Support the troops" without thinking, and I don't want to say something I don't mean. Of course I appreciate the freedom the US forces provide me, and I appreciate the sacrifices that have been made for myself and for millions around the world. At the same time, there are millions who appreciate the sacrifices made by people who fought/fight against the US. It's all games we've played and will continue to play because we don't know any other way. We need those men and women with that drive to action to protect us from other people who are exactly like them.
I know that sounds quite harsh and isn't the most cogent observation, but it was what was running through my mind as the sergeant gave a plaque to the departing Marine for performing the service of playing the role well. Regardless of how hard I tried, I couldn't understand what was behind it all.
Saturday was a slow day at home, sweating like mad and hoping for any breeze. Miah went out with some of the girls to a restaurant that night while I went with a couple of guys to play games at someone's house. It was a fun night that ended with me trying to figure out at which metro station I had been dropped. They all look the same at night, and the Acropolis isn't quite tall enough to be a landmark. Oh, and we went grocery shopping Saturday morning. We bought some shrimp and a whole frozen fish who is now staring at us each time we open the freezer. He looks like Dori. Grocery shopping here has shown me how stupid people are in their interactions with immigrants: talking to me more in Greek when I'm shaking my head isn't going to make me learn it any faster.
Sunday was even slower than Saturday, but it was good. I had planned on going into school to do work, but that never happened. I think that's going to happen often. Our house has become the place to come if you want to talk to family over Skype, so from 6:30 until 11:45 there were people in our living room and guest room talking to family.
School is settling down somewhat, but there are still a lot of things for me to iron out with the ESL programs. There are changes happening, and last week was a week of drama. I hate drama. There's new leadership with experienced teachers, two things which rarely mix well. All I know is that I'm in desperate need of a good text for intensive middle school ESL. Desperate. I have no idea what I'm doing tomorrow morning.
Okay, I've chronicled the Greece thing enough for now, so I'm going to indulge and mention some TV. Miah and I spent quite a bit of time this last year watching an HBO show called The Wire. The Baltimore-set show deals with the reality of ghetto life, inner-city schools, blue-collar workers, and politicians with an ingenious stroke of harshness and cynicism. We have one more episode to watch of the fifth and final season. The characters have touched us so much in their journeys through the stories, and I found myself incredibly moved in the episode we just watched in which a former drug addict celebrates his AA anniversary. Stories of redemption are common enough in all media, but to go back through 50 hours of television and remember the first moment when he was on screen with a needle and then see him standing timid but proud was perhaps the finest arc I've ever experienced. Of course the show, being as gritty as it is, had a smart but hopeless 16-year-old boy stepping up to fill the shoes of the drug addict as he walked into the darkened doorway of a drug den.
On that dark note--and before I become too emotional--I wish everyone a great week!
13 September 2008
Originally uploaded by dwain
This was our "around the bend surprise" at the Monastiraki metro station.
12 September 2008
I took some photos of our excursion--though that's an overstated word--to Psirri earlier this week, and I'll put those up.
Have a great weekend, everyone!
11 September 2008
Tomorrow night Miah and I are going to an embassy party being thrown by some Marines for a comrade who's leaving. The theme is "ebony and ivory." Not sure what to expect.
Some time in October there's an evening cruise being offered by one of the school board members as an opportunity for the staff to mingle with the parents. I can't imagine the cost. Of course, I think the board member owns the shipping line, so that might cut down on the cost a bit.
One of my American students, a 7th grade boy, said this to me the other as he stood sweaty, penitent, and tardy before me: "Sir, I'm sorry I'm late, sir, but I was playing tag."
It has been hot as can be the past week, but I've gotten used to sodden shirts and paper sticking to my arms.
The same two girls who were here a few nights ago using the free wifi are spread throughout our house talking to family. It's so funny to hear these conversations in the background and to try and comprehend the distance being covered. Are we really having an adventure when we can call like this?
10 September 2008
little things
- Walking down to the Central Market and then through the rather seedy Chinatown in search of a sushi restaurant called Godzilla.
- Met a woman and her grandson at a small estiatorio in Psirri. Her family was killed during World War II, and she told us the story of her brother's best friend being shot in the face while her brother stood by him. "I have a story," she said, and I just wanted to sit and listen to it all night.
- The cigar store that sells Cuban cigars at 20 Euros a pop.
- The old gypsy woman selling flowers from table to table.
- The vagrant who mumbled in English, "Have some spare change, man?" Everyone else at the table thought he said it in Greek and answered him in Greek.
- The truck which passed 6 inches from our backs as we sat at the curbside table.
- Walking back toward the metro from the restaurant and coming around a corner face to face with the Acropolis. The half moon hung over the Acropolis and dropped my jaw.
- The heat and sweaty smell of the metro as people went home at 11 o'clock last night.
And then I forget my keys this morning and am locked out of my room until someone with a key gets here. I'll be getting into my room around 9.
EDIT: I got home at 7 o'clock this evening after a couple of surprise meetings and a fruitless lesson planning session. All I want to do is eat.
08 September 2008
They're now involved in a rather loud argument with the handyman over the cost of his repairs. At least I think that's what's happening. From what I've heard of Greek conversations, they could be telling each other how much they love ice cream. The volume and heat of Greek conversations are surpassed only by Russian and Arabic.
07 September 2008
Miah blogs again!
There's a funny scene taking place in our house right now: in our bedroom is Kate--another new hire--talking with her mother on Skype; in the living room is Lindsey--another new hire and Kate's roommate--talking with her boyfriend on Skype; and in the kitchen I sit after having talked with my family in Pennsylvania on Skype. Earlier today we talked with several friends in Lexington as well. Technology is amazing. Why is everyone doing this at our house, you ask? Because we're all jacking wi-fi from some poor sod in the area who didn't secure his router.
The high today was 93, a pleasant temperature if there's a breeze going through the house. We have every door/window in the house open, but the lovely breeze from the afternoon has moved on to the islands and left us with a warm evening.
Our first full week, and I have no idea what I'm doing tomorrow morning. Endaxi! (It's okay!)
06 September 2008
moment of peace
I'm a little hesitant to write anything right now because of my general state of anger and annoyance. I've felt annoyed for the past 4 days, quite a long time to be gently seething while smiling. Again, I really shouldn't be writing right now, but I have to get some of this off my chest.
Moving to a different country is, obviously, a difficult affair regardless of how much experience you've had overseas. Visiting a place and living in a place are completely different experiences. I didn't expect that there would be much culture shock for Miah and I moving here, and I frankly haven't been shocked by anything I've experienced. The horrible amount of bureaucracy we went through this summer had already implanted in my mind the image of a third-world country, so arriving here and seeing the filth of Athens fit into the picture I had of a metropolis stuck in the mid-20th century fit my expectations. Granted, I wasn't quite prepared for the sheer volume of trash and dead animals that is in the abandoned lots around town.
But my annoyance hasn't come from anything I've encountered in Athens or in Greece in general. No, Greece isn't the beautiful place that it appears in photos (photos don't capture smells, sounds, or heat), but it does have some beautiful vistas and magical moments. No, Greece hasn't enchanted me with its people or its history, but I do quite like most of the people I've met who have been very friendly and helpful. Greece is perfectly fine as a vacation destination or as a place to study for a while.
What's annoying me is the school. Disappointing me, to be truthful. I had the highest expectations of the school--my first mistake--and have been let down time and time again. (Grain of salt: we've been in the country for 2 weeks.) Not everything about the school is a disappointment, of course, and I'm trying to maintain (obtain?) a positive attitude about it.
The school's motto says something to the effect of being the "premier international school" of Athens and of following the "American philosophy" of education. I'm going to make a bold statement which I will be more than glad to retract down the road: a large percentage of American public schools are more rigorous and successful than ACS. I know, I know, the oft-reviled American public school just got a compliment.
I think the easiest way for me to explain why I make such a bombastic judgment is to give a few examples of things which have stood out to me as being in opposition to the ACS motto:
- There are teachers there who have been teaching at the school for 25 years or more. Experience is a good thing in some professions, but teaching experience and growth peak and stagnate after much less than that. Also, complacency sets in long before 25 years.
- If a teacher has been teaching for more than 15 years (circa), Greek law requires that they teach only 4 classes instead of the regular 5. The 5th "hour" must be used to do some sort of project for the improvement of the school. Translation: nap time. This is a problem because there is a large group of teachers who should have retired years ago.
- Photocopies must be requested 2 days in advance. That's right. You can't make more than 3 copies on the Office Space copier in the school. This takes all spontaneity out of teaching. It's often the idea that pops into your mind the night before that is best, but you can't use it here.
- School begins at 9 and ends at 3:30. In the elementary school, there's a morning recess, a snack time, a 40-minute lunch, and an afternoon recess. In the middle and high school, there are 2 10-minute breaks plus a 40-minute lunch.
- In...
05 September 2008
brain hurt
We're going to get some food and help one of our team put together some furniture. She just got out of the hospital for blood clots. In Greece, you have to furnish your own toiletries and pajamas at the hospital.
04 September 2008
03 September 2008
last night before school
Miah is visiting one of our new teacher colleagues who is in the hospital with blood clots. I selfishly came home.
nervous
They're not here.
Miah put many of her favorite children's books in it along with PowerPoint presentations and other important teaching materials. I put in many ESL books and literature books which I considered important. For some reason, we have detailed lists of the books stored at my parents' house, but we didn't make a list of the books we sent. Miah says we don't need to freak out yet, but I'm freaking out, and she's just trying to be the strong one.
Saint Anthony needs to come through on this one!
02 September 2008
A fighting cow and pot from Crete
Miah's blog below is the first of many entries from her, but I have been tasked with filling in the blanks of Sunday and Monday. It's getting late, I just ate, and tomorrow is another day of meetings, so this will be unfortunately short.
On Sunday, Miah and I decided to go to Aegina with whoever showed up at the platform of the Panormou station at 7:30, a plan we discussed with a few people the day before. At 7:30, John and Kate--academy science and 3rd grader, respectively--showed up on the platform. None of us were all that excited, to be honest, because it had rained the day before, and the Sunday sky held the promise of more of the same. We agreed that we would at least go down to Piraeus and see the port before calling it quits and heading "home" to the hotel. When we go there, we couldn't resist the call of the island, so we paid 19 Euros for a roundtrip ticket to and from the port city of Aegina. The ferry, the Artemis, was a 3-story behemoth that was practically empty when we sailed at 9 o'clock, and it sped through the Saronic gulf at a speed which, combined with the stormy wind, had us staggering to maintain our footing on the top deck.
Half way to Aegina, the storm clouds began to clear over the island and spawned a double rainbow of intense color and beauty. It was so close that we could almost touch it.
Aegina is a town of about 10000 which lies on the western edge of the island. It has a small swimming beach lined with restaurants whose tables sit within splashing distance of the Mediterranean and whose walls are covered in drying octopus. We walked along the harbor for a bit and admired the beautiful and enormous yachts from all over Europe (most were bigger than our apartment) which then gave way to the fishing trawlers and dinghies. There were also two boats loaded with fresh produce which was spread out on the sidewalk of the harbor and was being eagerly perused by the locals. A kilometer or so from the restaurant where we ate was a column rising abover the rooftops, weatherbeaten and tired but still proud. It was part of the temple of Apollo, a structure older than the Christian faith (for some perspective). Another surreal moment. The entire population of the town could have been swept into the sea, but the column would remain. Or the population could push the column into the sea and its memory would die with the population. Either way, it remains.
After a delicious meal of grilled octopus, fried calimari, sfirida (some kind of white fish), and a Greek salad, we wandered around a little bit then boarded the ferry. We met another new teacher couple just arriving (tourists are everywhere!) who had also felt the call of island escapism. I won't detail the ferry ride back because I have pictures of the little boy, birds, and water on the Flickr page.
Monday, Labor Day, we put together our IKEA furniture which finally arrived on the backs of two sweaty Greeks. Putting together IKEA is a pain in the butt. Also, we got 2 wrong pieces: the cushion to the futon and a disgusting white coffee table. The things that happen when you don't speak Swedish or Greek. Beyond that, the day was uneventful.
Today began our meetings at school. I'm so riled up right now that I don't feel I should blog about it. One new teacher said, "It's like I'm stepping back in time 3 years." I know that doesn't explain anything to you, dearest reader, but it's perfect. We have a lot to bring to the school in order to catch them up to where many American public schools are.
We also went grocery shopping at ΑΤΛΑΝΤΗΚ in our neighborhood. It wasn't easy not being able to read any of the labels, and I'm still not convinced we didn't buy olive-scented baby oil instead of extra virgin olive oil. Oh, and somewhere in the process we acquired two glasses with spirally red hearts on them while checking out, and all the cashier said when I motioned they weren't ours was, "Doura." I don't know what that means.
Miah writes!
We got in our place and he looked at the stove and said something to me and left. I assumed he was coming back so I took a chair out on the balcony (to wait to be able to open the gate for him if he came back). I also took the computer becuase I thought I might actually blog while I was waiting. Well when I tried to open up the blogging page everything was in Greek. Then when I went to our blog, it was also all in Greek and I had no idea why (unless dwain was lying to me about not being able to speak and write Greek and was secretly writing blogs in Greek) or how to fix it so I gave up.
About 45 minutes later the electrician showed up with a cord that he must have had to go buy, and he spent the next 20 minutes working in the kitchen. Instead of trying to ask me where the fuse box was, he just went looking and found it at the end of the hall and turned on the kitchen. Then he showed me that each of the burners worked by placing his hand on them until they got hot and then having me touch. Then he said a bunch of something, and I thought I understood "school" so I said "ne, ne, yes, yes" and went back out to the car with him.
He dropped me off at the security gate and the guard asked me how it went and I said "Great!" and then I asked him to ask the electrician how much I owed him for driving me to and from, for the cord, and for the labor and after the security gaurd and electrician talked and laughed for a while. He told me it was on the house and was a gift. I must have been extremely pathetic but am grateful to have a working stove and to be living in a country of friendly people even if I can't understand a word they say.
01 September 2008
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