30 November 2008
NEW BLOG ADDRESS
It's pretty easy to get to:
http://grecoroamin.wordpress.com
I hope this doesn't throw anyone's RSS feed into chaos.
26 November 2008
Thanksgiving
We've rented a car from Swift Car Rental in Athens and will be driving with one of our friends first to Delphi then to Meteora and then to Papigo. Delphi is the center of the world, Meteora is not for those who are afraid of heights, and Papigo is a quaint stone town near the Vikos Gorge, the deepest gorge (disputed) in the world. We'll return on Sunday after more than 15 hours on the treacherous roads of Greece. Scratch that: the roads aren't dangerous; it's the drivers who are treacherous.
22 November 2008
3 months
It's a warm and windy day outside, 72 degrees despite the dark cotton clouds that fill most of the sky. We went to our local grocery store this morning to get ingredients for a soiree we're having tonight. I no longer dread going to the grocery store; I've embraced the confusion and just grab things now. I was proud of myself for figuring out 'gouda' in Greek: ΓΚΟΥΝΤΑ. The gamma/kappa combination make a hard 'g' sound; the omicron/ipsilon combination make the long 'u' sound; and the ni/tau combination make a 'd.'
The light fixture in our kitchen is out for some reason, and we can't figure out what to do. As a fix, we've brought a floor lamp in, but the problem is that there are only two outlets in the kitchen, and one of them is the fridge. This wouldn't be that bad except for the teeny-tiny annoyance that for hot water in our kitchen, we have to plug in a hot water heater in the kitchen. It comes down to the option of hot water for dishes and no light, or light and cold water. What would you do?
18 November 2008
name dispute
17 November 2008
Help!
We're trying to decide whether to bring Maxx back with us. He's driving my family bonkers with his idiosyncrasies, and though they try to put on a brave face about the situation, their voices crack and tears of frustration can be heard across the miles. I'm fairly certain that my dear mother has acquired a new streak of white hair because of the little guy.
There are several things to consider before we decide to bring him over, but the one factor with which I need your help is finding a pet carrier. United Airlines, our flight from PA to DC to Berlin to Athens (a HORRIBLE schedule), are incredibly stupid about their dimensions for pets in the cabin: 17x10x10. Most other airlines have a 22x12x10, but apparently United only wants kittens on their flights.
I've found a few options, but most of them fudge the dimensions by 1/2 an inch to an inch. Help me find something! Maxx has those long dancer's legs, and the thought of squeezing him into a tissue box pains me.
Help us help my parents!
TAKE THE POLL ON THE RIGHT!
rainy days and Mondays
We were at a friend's apartment when it started, and I spent over an hour dialing different taxi companies to no avail. Their lines were so busy that it finally said the network was busy, not just the phone number. Finally, Miah and I decided to walk home. If she weren't in a long skirt, and if I weren't wearing black leather shoes, there might have been a cathartic joy in walking through the cleansing rain. Instead, we sludged along through the streetrivers which are cleansing the city of its filth. At one point I was so deep in water that it was brimming over into my shoes.
We got our tax IDs today! That is, we got the number. The paperwork itself still has 32 levels of bureaucracy and 6 shades of red stamps to pass through, but at least we have the number. I think the bureaucracy had actually begun to wear on the people at the school, quite ironic considering the tongue lashing we received last week about living by the laws of the land and being patient.
16 November 2008
15 November 2008
snippets
As I have already mentioned, riding the metro in Athens is a cultural exploration in its own right. We get on at the Chalandri station and usually ride it to either Syntagma or Monastiraki. It's an odd rhythm that develops as we travel under the city: the inconstant speed of the train as it slows for curves and then speeds on to the next platform slowly develops into a syncopated pattern that seems to make sense if you could only ride the train long enough; the perfectly lilted voice of the woman announcing the stops, first in Greek then in English, begins to sound familiar and becomes part of the anticipation of arrival; the doors ritualistically slide open and disgorge people who look down at the platform as they try to avoid too much contact with the throng of people waiting to fill the empty spots; the careful selection and balance of which train cars are full and which need be filled is part of the rhythm as people shuffle along the platform and shift in place once on the train; the whistling of the brakes and the squeal of steel on steel echoes off the tunnel walls and quickly surrounds the ear so completely that all other noise is subliminal; and that's how thousands of people flow through the veins of the city, pulsing along on the most determinant timetable of the day and through the narrowest of geographies.
I sat next to what I firmly believe was an Albanian immigrant this afternoon. He smelled of cheap cologne and alcoholic sweat. Two weeks ago, I got onto the metro at the end of the line (beginning?) and sat across from a couple who were asleep and totally oblivious that they had arrived at the port. I rode with them all the way back to Monastiraki. Like the proverbial body, they could have ridden all day like that. They were either exhausted or on drugs, and from their scruffy clothes and dirty hands, I assumed, perhaps unustly, that their sleep wasn't the sleep of angels.
Every time I ride the metro, I see a new person whose life I desperately would love to explore. I want to stop the person and ask them if any of the split-second assumptions I make about them are even slightly accurate. We once saw a man get off the train carrying a live chicken with it's head poking out of a plastic bag.
Immigrants and Nationalism
Immigration has been on Athens' collective mind recently. It has an enormous immigrant population from Eastern European countries, North Africa, and Southeast Asia. Today, while sitting outside at the James Joyce Pub, we saw a group of African street vendors with their wares in plastic tarps over their shoulders dashing madly away from the Monastiraki flea market as police strolled down the streets. I cannot imagine living my life in such fear.
On that note, I have been taken aback by the prejudice toward immigrants, particularly Albanians, which I've seen this week. I had heard a few little jabs about them, but this week I've heard outright venom about their thieving ways and untrustworthiness. Of course each of these vitriolic outbursts has been preceded by "I'm not racist, but..." I heard the same thing last week from a Slovakian (Slovak?) student about Obama. Her boyfriend is a skinhead who hates gypsies because they purportedly killed his mentor/father figure. I don't comprehend how that segues into ethnic hatred, but apparently it does.
I understand a certain degree of pride in nation and history, but nationalism is alive and well in Greece to a dangerous degree. A nation so egocentric (to use a Greek word) is not going to do well in the 'new world.' Of course I say this while still being wholly supportive of the 'noble savage' tribes who retain--cling to--their ancient ways in the jungles of South America. There's an invisible and undefinable line between preservation of the worthy past and outright navel-gazing.
Pronunciation
Athin-A is, if I remember correctly, the name of the city.
Ath-I-na is, if that is the case, the name of the goddess.
Xmas
We'll be going home for Xmas! It came through on Thursday that the Greek government will open a window of visa-less travel to and from the USA from yesterday until the end of January. Well, it's more complext than that, but the gist is that we'll get to see family and.... Well, a couple friends, perhaps.
Debate
Last weekend I coached and judged a debate tournament held at Deree College, part of the American College of Athens. I had 3 teams competing against 61 other teams from various international schools in Athens. The debate was done in the British parliamentary style which has 2 unrelated teams of 2 competing against 2 others. A topic is given, and each team develops its own argument(s) in 15 minutes and then argues them for 6 minutes. There's a very specific structure and procedure, and it's a bit confusing at first, but I enjoyed the experiene. I only heard one good debate about a topic, unfortunately, so by the end I was ready to cut my eyeballs as a group of high school Greek students (very much ESL) argued the most superficial points of the legalization of gay marriage. One of our teams placed 19th overall, and one of our speakers placed 38th individually out of 130. Not bad for not having had a single practice!
On Tuesday, the co-coach and I split the group and had 2 short debates about gay marriage and firearms (not connected). I had to participate to even out the teams, and it was great fun to get up and argue with no preparation whatsoever. The students are much more familiar with it than me, and I suspect at least two of them are much more adept at it than me (said with a genuine amount of humility), but I still have a lot to offer them. Critical thinking skills are a lost art.
I forgot...
...what else I was going to blog about. Maybe when Miah wakes up she can remind me.
12 November 2008
full moon
We went downtown and then to The Mall to buy some sweaters. It's become quite cold in the past two days, and there's a dampness that makes my bones grumble. We bought roasted chestnuts from a street vendor (I think they're sitting in my backpack, now that I think of it), and we decided that the Xmas song totally overrates them. The chestnuts, not the street vendor.
Here's a map of the Athens metro and suburban railway system. We live 10 minutes north of the Halandri station (in the east), and the school is 1 minute from the Ag. Paraskevi station which is still being constructed. The metros are packed, and the nauseating mixture of perfumes and sweat isn't always the most pleasant. Yet there's something intoxicatingly primal about being around that many people and smelling the reality of human existence under all the perfume. And the roasted chestnuts were smelly, too.
10 November 2008
Cost of Living
almost rainy Monday
We had Greek class this afternoon. I think I'm doing relatively well considering how little time I dedicate to actually trying to learn.
Fall has arrived in Athens, and the cold wind blowing through the streets is odd to feel when the trees blowing in it are orange and lemon trees.
06 November 2008
reaching out
There was great excitement in Athens Wednesday morning. My students were all agitated, either in excitement or despair. It's fascinating to hear the opinions of parents through their children. I had one student today say he saw a red laser dot on Obama's forehead during his victory speech, like a marksman's scope. When do children become smart?
I don't know the political leanings of you, faithful reader, but let me say that I began yesterday with a sensation I haven't felt for many years: patriotism. Regardless of how you voted and where you stand on issues, it is impossible not to reflect with wonder at the ability of a community divided to unite despite its differences. I overhead a couple of expat teachers at the school celebrating Wednesday morning, and they all mentioned that they were proud, that morning, to be American. The notion that a country could "split" in an election yet remain united is foreign to many nations, and I believe John McCain's eloquent concession speech is a perfect example of the spirit which uniquely unites the States.
I went to bed early on Tuesday after an evening at a friend's house watching CNN. I couldn't stay up all night to watch it, and we had missed the tickets to the party at the Hilton. I woke up at 6 on Wednesday and decided to take a shower. Whatever the outcome was, I wanted to be awake and refreshed to absorb it. I think I'll always remember the moment like I remember the moment I heard about the Twin Towers. I saw the headline and the smile, and I just had to shout out in joy and wonder. I saw a link that said he would be speaking soon, and by sheer chance I was able to watch his acceptance speech live on the internet. It wasn't as eloquent as McCain's, in my opinion, but the spirit behind it and the fact of the moment were astounding.
I hope I offended no one with this.
04 November 2008
go vote!
For those of you voting in Lexington, KY, here's an FYI from the Lexington Herald-Leader that I did not (could not) make up:
No booze: Alcohol sales, either by-the-drink or in a package, are not allowed while the polls are open. (In KY, we always refer to alcohol as 'booze' or 'firewater.')
Bed bug update: People voting at the Ballard-Griffith Towers Apartments in Lexington should not be concerned about the bedbugs that have infested more than 300 units at the complex, according to city officials. The voting room has been chemically treated, all furniture removed and the carpet steam cleaned to remove any possibility of infestation. Voters who do not live in the complex are asked to enter the precinct from the outside door that leads directly to the voting room instead of entering through the building lobby. (Wow.)
01 November 2008
"prisoners of Greece"
Disclaimer: For every sentence in this paragraph, please insert either "I think" or "as far as I know" at the end.
United States' citizens do not need to apply for a visa to enter Greece for reasons of tourism. US citizens are given a 90-day visa upon entry into Greece. Greece is part of the Schengen Agreement along with 23 other countries in Europe. The tourist visa given when first entering any one of those nations is good in all of them for the 90-day period. All of the new hires at ACS were given a specific type of Schengen visa, 'Type D.' This type of visa is for people who will be staying in a country beyond the 90 days for work or study purposes. People with this type of visa are likely applying for a residence permit.
Okay, so that's what I think I know. Here's where I get fuzzy.
We sent our visa paperwork, contracts, residency applications, etc. in the middle of July, and they were received by July 24th. At the beginning of this week, we were told that we would not have our AFM (tax IDs) for a minimum of 25 days, and the AFM is dependent on receiving our residency/work permits. That's, by my count, 4 months. Now, I know the wheels of bureaucracy turn slowly--I think the Greek wheel is flat--but this is becoming problematic for everyone involved. Because...
There's more. We just found out from the school that we technically are only allowed to be in Greece (or any combination of Schengen countries) for a 90-day period in any 180-day period. Our visas expire November 18th (8 days before our first vacation!!), and the end of 180 days is some time in February. That means, from what I can tell, that we're stuck in Greece until February. This is bad news for several people:
- One teacher is going to Slovakia for Thanksgiving, consequenes be damned.
- A counselor was to attend a conference in France which begins the 18th. Tickets purchased.
- Nearly every teacher was going to travel at Xmas, either to the States or a neighboring nation.
- We bought the extremely expensive tickets to the States months ago.
What was the advice of the school's representative? "You must rearrange your plans."
The fear is what will happen when we try to reenter Greece. Apparently they're more "anal retentive" about allowing people in than other EU nations. One of my colleagues is stymied by the baseless "elitism" of Greece, and I agree completely. There's a Greek-Canadian teacher who's pregnant and told me that having a child in Greece doesn't automatically make the child Greek. In order to be Greek from birth, you have to already have a Greek relative. I know Greece isn't the only nation with this policy, but the policy seems a little incestuous to me. Or maybe that's just my "mongrel American" mentality.
I think I've come to the decision that Americans, despite how insular and egocentric we are, have a bit of a knack for change that few other nations have. I'm too angry to explore the thought right now, but I want to to see how wrong I am.
I'm nearly done with the school. Miah is done.